Takeo, Dec 30, 2010.
115 km
Takeo is not much.
It was a long day getting here. I arrived around 0530 and picked the guest house recommended in Lonely Planets Cambodia book, Boeung Takeo. It is OK but really nothing special.
As I walked around in the evening to find dinner I saw that there is also a guest house right by the Independence monument. I did not check it out and it is not that impressive from the outside, but still if I were to spend another night in Takeo I would have a look at it.
I had dinner at an outdoor upscale restaurant. There were cubicles around each table and a roof, but still outdoors. When I walked in I saw a group of young Khmer in one such cubicle. I said 'good evening' but did not intrude on them. I got my own table.
Right soon one of the Khmer guests came over to me to offer help with understanding the menu and get my order sorted. His English was limited but still useful.
Later as I was enjoying a pre dinner drink one young Khmer woman came over to sit by my table for a few minutes. She spoke no English at all. Anyway it was sweet of them to offer me a bit of help help and company.
Friday, December 31, 2010
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Kep
Dec 29, Kep, 30 km.
Took a day off in Kampot. Needed to rest my legs from previous days long ride.
Today has been ever so sweet. Not much traffic and wind more with me than against. Took me less than two hours to get to Kep. But it cost me two dozen 'Hellos' at the least.
I cycled around a bit in Kep to check it out, since I was so early. Eventually I turned back and moved in at Kukuluku guest house. At $15 it is a bit more expensive than Kampot but a very nice place. Cute room and there is a garden and a private little beach. We are facing West and I am looking forward to the sunset.
Café Cambodienne
...........
Later I had dinner at Sunset Restaurant at the Crab Market. It was one of the finest dining experiences in my life. I am not saying the finest because there would be 25 or maybe even 50 dinners I have had that are right up there. But I can not recall any meal I have had that has been better than this.
Grilled prawns, on sticks with a divine dip sauce of lime, salt and a green spice. Prawns not as large as at Snookyville, but more of them, and very easy to peel while still on their sticks. Gorgeous! And in a wonderfully beautiful room. So simple, so totally with the whole area, and very tasteful. Very sweet waitress too!
Took a day off in Kampot. Needed to rest my legs from previous days long ride.
Today has been ever so sweet. Not much traffic and wind more with me than against. Took me less than two hours to get to Kep. But it cost me two dozen 'Hellos' at the least.
I cycled around a bit in Kep to check it out, since I was so early. Eventually I turned back and moved in at Kukuluku guest house. At $15 it is a bit more expensive than Kampot but a very nice place. Cute room and there is a garden and a private little beach. We are facing West and I am looking forward to the sunset.
...........
Later I had dinner at Sunset Restaurant at the Crab Market. It was one of the finest dining experiences in my life. I am not saying the finest because there would be 25 or maybe even 50 dinners I have had that are right up there. But I can not recall any meal I have had that has been better than this.
Grilled prawns, on sticks with a divine dip sauce of lime, salt and a green spice. Prawns not as large as at Snookyville, but more of them, and very easy to peel while still on their sticks. Gorgeous! And in a wonderfully beautiful room. So simple, so totally with the whole area, and very tasteful. Very sweet waitress too!
Kampot
Kampot, Dec 27, 2010.
117 km
Had a bit of the runs yesterday morning. Took an Imodium and drank a bottle of water. Had a light breakfast and hit the road. Obviously having stomach problems is not ideal when setting out on a 100 km plus cycling day. But I had indeed been long enough in Sihanoukville and needed to move on. There are a couple of hills to get out of town. But then on it is mostly quite flat.
The first 55 km was along the same hghwy #4 I had come down to Sihanouk on. This is the main road between Sihanouk and Phnom Penh and alas there is quite a bit of traffic. In Real Vinh, where I had stayed overnight a week ago, and then erroneously called Prey Nob, I turned off on the road to Kampot. Immediately traffic thinned out while the road remained good, sometimes even better, with an asphalt shoulder. Road had that Thai feeling to it.
I had a good lunch at Real Vinh and continued drinking more water. Still I got really tired before reaching Kampot. My thighs felt stiff and I had some back ache. It was nearly 530 when I finally checked in at Kampot Guest House. Lovely hot shower and then I crashed on my bed for a couple of hours. Kampot looks a sweet town with many houses in the French colonial architecture that I feel goes well with the land here.
Vegetarian "Hot Dog"
Up to Real Vinh I had a side wind, but then it turned against me and was at times a bit strong right in my face.
Staying at Kampot Guest House. Huge spotless room for 10 bucks. Hot shower but no aircon.
117 km
Had a bit of the runs yesterday morning. Took an Imodium and drank a bottle of water. Had a light breakfast and hit the road. Obviously having stomach problems is not ideal when setting out on a 100 km plus cycling day. But I had indeed been long enough in Sihanoukville and needed to move on. There are a couple of hills to get out of town. But then on it is mostly quite flat.
The first 55 km was along the same hghwy #4 I had come down to Sihanouk on. This is the main road between Sihanouk and Phnom Penh and alas there is quite a bit of traffic. In Real Vinh, where I had stayed overnight a week ago, and then erroneously called Prey Nob, I turned off on the road to Kampot. Immediately traffic thinned out while the road remained good, sometimes even better, with an asphalt shoulder. Road had that Thai feeling to it.
I had a good lunch at Real Vinh and continued drinking more water. Still I got really tired before reaching Kampot. My thighs felt stiff and I had some back ache. It was nearly 530 when I finally checked in at Kampot Guest House. Lovely hot shower and then I crashed on my bed for a couple of hours. Kampot looks a sweet town with many houses in the French colonial architecture that I feel goes well with the land here.
Up to Real Vinh I had a side wind, but then it turned against me and was at times a bit strong right in my face.
Staying at Kampot Guest House. Huge spotless room for 10 bucks. Hot shower but no aircon.
Monday, December 20, 2010
Sihanoukville
Dec 20, 2010. Serendipity Beach.
59 km, ave 16,5, total 831 km.
I simply can not imagine a softer place to be for Christmas! X-mas happens everywhere these days, whether we like it or not. But here it is quite unintrusive. Several foreigners, and Cambodians too, have donned red Santa Claus hats. But that is about the extent of it. Restaurants still have the same barbecues and those who use to play Techno still do. The 60's-70's bars play Santana and Rolling Stones, and the reggae joint pumps out their irregular backrolled stuff, as if nothing had happened.
Mellow, is a word that springs to mind.
X-mas? So What?
Map Chonburi-Sihanoukville
Serendidpity Beach
BBQ'd Jumbo Prawns. $3 for a plate like this. Very Good!
Little Santa
59 km, ave 16,5, total 831 km.
I simply can not imagine a softer place to be for Christmas! X-mas happens everywhere these days, whether we like it or not. But here it is quite unintrusive. Several foreigners, and Cambodians too, have donned red Santa Claus hats. But that is about the extent of it. Restaurants still have the same barbecues and those who use to play Techno still do. The 60's-70's bars play Santana and Rolling Stones, and the reggae joint pumps out their irregular backrolled stuff, as if nothing had happened.
Mellow, is a word that springs to mind.
Real Vinh
Dec 19, 2010.
60 kms, ave 16,5, total 772 kms.
Going to bed as early as I did I was not all that surprised to wake up a couple of times in the middle of the night. I plugged in my Ipod and listened to podcast documentaries I had with me from home. My room had no windows and I never knew when this morning dawned. I kept listening to more one hour plus podcasts, waiting for my alarm clock to go off. Eventually i flicked on my flashlight and checked the time. It was almost nine o'clock in the morning! Shit! I had a wash, packed and left around 0930. Stopped by the bridge for some breakfast which came to be only two boiled eggs and coffee.
The place where I had lunch had three ducks, two chickens, one piglet, one dog and one cat in the restaurant. Live ones, not on the menu. Not yet. I like having some live animals in restaurants, it should be mandatory to have at least one dog.
Thai made road
Cambodian road
I had hoped to go all the way to Sihanoukville today, expected it to be about 80 kms. The only distance markers along the road was for Phnom Penh. After about 20 kms I came to the junction were the road splits, one NorthEast for Phnom Penh and the other SouthWest for Sihanouk. I soon realized there was little point in continuing all the way and arrive late. I plan to stay for a few days on the beach and want to pick a good place, better arrive mid day or so.
There are frequent small coffee shops along the road now. I stopped at a place for a noodle soup, my first on this trip. Then I thought why don't I keep an eye out for guest house signs, only so I can tell you about them. Well soon I found one, which did not look that inviting, and then another one. It is still right next to a busy road, and nothing special. But the man seemed good, I neede to write up on my journal and there is a whole bunch of puppy dogs here. So I moved in, 6$. Still don't really know how much further it is to Sihanoukville, but I think maybe abt 50 kms.
60 kms, ave 16,5, total 772 kms.
Going to bed as early as I did I was not all that surprised to wake up a couple of times in the middle of the night. I plugged in my Ipod and listened to podcast documentaries I had with me from home. My room had no windows and I never knew when this morning dawned. I kept listening to more one hour plus podcasts, waiting for my alarm clock to go off. Eventually i flicked on my flashlight and checked the time. It was almost nine o'clock in the morning! Shit! I had a wash, packed and left around 0930. Stopped by the bridge for some breakfast which came to be only two boiled eggs and coffee.
The place where I had lunch had three ducks, two chickens, one piglet, one dog and one cat in the restaurant. Live ones, not on the menu. Not yet. I like having some live animals in restaurants, it should be mandatory to have at least one dog.
I had hoped to go all the way to Sihanoukville today, expected it to be about 80 kms. The only distance markers along the road was for Phnom Penh. After about 20 kms I came to the junction were the road splits, one NorthEast for Phnom Penh and the other SouthWest for Sihanouk. I soon realized there was little point in continuing all the way and arrive late. I plan to stay for a few days on the beach and want to pick a good place, better arrive mid day or so.
There are frequent small coffee shops along the road now. I stopped at a place for a noodle soup, my first on this trip. Then I thought why don't I keep an eye out for guest house signs, only so I can tell you about them. Well soon I found one, which did not look that inviting, and then another one. It is still right next to a busy road, and nothing special. But the man seemed good, I neede to write up on my journal and there is a whole bunch of puppy dogs here. So I moved in, 6$. Still don't really know how much further it is to Sihanoukville, but I think maybe abt 50 kms.
Sre Ambel
Dec 18, 2010.
87 kms, ave 14,5, total 712 kms.
The Wildlife guys told me about the road ahead and said I could find a guest house at Sre Ambel. The first 40 kms still had some hills, but after the second bridge it was flatter.
I passed the Sre Ambel bridge and asked for a guest house. They pointed me off to the right on a mud track along the river. It was still another 4 kms to go before I reached the actual village, or town maybe. Right soon I saw a place with a Hotel sign. I asked for a room and was given an OK one, 7$. Bed and bathroom was fine and the girls there very sweet.
Later as I walked around a bit in town I saw another house with a Guest House sign. The place I stayed at had inordinately many young girls in scanty clothing and heavy make up, and there was some music in the evening. It may actually have been the local whorehouse. The only suggestion of any sort to me was for massage, which I declined. Early in bed again.
Sre Ambel actually looked interesting and I regret having arrived as late as I did. I don't really think there is enough to warrant a whole days stay but I could easily have walked around there a few more hours. Had a fish dinner with sticky rice and an Angkor beer.
I get only better and better feelings with Cambodian village life and people. I am looking forward to more of it later up further north.
87 kms, ave 14,5, total 712 kms.
The Wildlife guys told me about the road ahead and said I could find a guest house at Sre Ambel. The first 40 kms still had some hills, but after the second bridge it was flatter.
I passed the Sre Ambel bridge and asked for a guest house. They pointed me off to the right on a mud track along the river. It was still another 4 kms to go before I reached the actual village, or town maybe. Right soon I saw a place with a Hotel sign. I asked for a room and was given an OK one, 7$. Bed and bathroom was fine and the girls there very sweet.
Later as I walked around a bit in town I saw another house with a Guest House sign. The place I stayed at had inordinately many young girls in scanty clothing and heavy make up, and there was some music in the evening. It may actually have been the local whorehouse. The only suggestion of any sort to me was for massage, which I declined. Early in bed again.
Sre Ambel actually looked interesting and I regret having arrived as late as I did. I don't really think there is enough to warrant a whole days stay but I could easily have walked around there a few more hours. Had a fish dinner with sticky rice and an Angkor beer.
I get only better and better feelings with Cambodian village life and people. I am looking forward to more of it later up further north.
Tra Peang Rung
Dec 17, 2010.
66 km
Had my alarm at 6 o'clock as usual. Already when I woke up I could hear it was raining again. We got a good shower early last night so it was not totally out of the blue. Right now it is just after seven and I have been out for breakfast. I had meant to get going early since I really have no idea when or where I can find lodging along the way to Snookyville. I have some 240 kms to go and plan to break it up in three days. But there is no question of setting out into the unknown as long as it is raining already. I'll give it another hour or two before deciding if I must remain here all day.
..................
Well, eventually the rain ceased. I went to Paddy's Pub for a large baguette with egg and cheese, coffee. Talked to a nice Khmer dude who had been born and raised in a refugee camp in Thailand, where he also learnt English. He could give me some advice on places along the road where I could find accommodation.
The skies started to look promising so I set off at 1100, expecting to ride some 60 kms. It turned out to be 66. But there, soon after the Tra Peang Rung bridge I found a Wildlife Alliance setup. They also have arrangements with some villagers to take in tourists on a homestay thing. Only 3$ gave me a good room in a sweet little village along the river. WA is at the time of my stop still awaiting final government approval to be allowed to take tourists on trekking in the area. I saw some pictures, looked very nice. This is at the edge of The Cardamom mountains.
There were a few hills on the way here. Nothing major at all, but since I have so far only cycled on very flat roads in Thailand it tired me nevertheless. There was a good restaurant right next to the WA, where I had a good dinner. I was in bed shortly after 7.
Mines?
66 km
Had my alarm at 6 o'clock as usual. Already when I woke up I could hear it was raining again. We got a good shower early last night so it was not totally out of the blue. Right now it is just after seven and I have been out for breakfast. I had meant to get going early since I really have no idea when or where I can find lodging along the way to Snookyville. I have some 240 kms to go and plan to break it up in three days. But there is no question of setting out into the unknown as long as it is raining already. I'll give it another hour or two before deciding if I must remain here all day.
..................
Well, eventually the rain ceased. I went to Paddy's Pub for a large baguette with egg and cheese, coffee. Talked to a nice Khmer dude who had been born and raised in a refugee camp in Thailand, where he also learnt English. He could give me some advice on places along the road where I could find accommodation.
The skies started to look promising so I set off at 1100, expecting to ride some 60 kms. It turned out to be 66. But there, soon after the Tra Peang Rung bridge I found a Wildlife Alliance setup. They also have arrangements with some villagers to take in tourists on a homestay thing. Only 3$ gave me a good room in a sweet little village along the river. WA is at the time of my stop still awaiting final government approval to be allowed to take tourists on trekking in the area. I saw some pictures, looked very nice. This is at the edge of The Cardamom mountains.
There were a few hills on the way here. Nothing major at all, but since I have so far only cycled on very flat roads in Thailand it tired me nevertheless. There was a good restaurant right next to the WA, where I had a good dinner. I was in bed shortly after 7.
Krong Koh Kong
Dec 16, 2010.
54 kms, ave 15,5.
I had a really good breakfast and was a bit late leaving Mae Rut. Then took small back roads through Khlong Yai to Hat Lek and the border. I was a bit concerned if the Cambodians would need more than one photo of me, since I only had one. I was looking for a photographer in Khlong Yai, but saw none.
Thai immigration was as always simple and efficient. But then entering Cambodia is quite a different story. Lots of touts and 'helpers' around who kept suggesting I should pay this and that guy some money for just doing his job. I refused. The lady at the counter where I would get my 'visa on arrival' said it would be 1500 Baht. But I insisted that it should be 20 $ and no more. Eventually she took the 20 and did her thing, but would not give me my passport back until I handed over 200 Baht. Touts suggested I change money, buy cigarettes, get a bus to Sihanoukville etc, but I stonewalled them, with a smile.
When I finally cycled away from there I noticed that one of my panniers had come off its clamps from the rear rack. I never saw how it happened but think that someone had probably tried to steal it. But I have a lock on its straps so they can not be just lifted off.
I cycled some 10 kms into Cambodia and stopped for lunch here at Krong Koh Kong. Rode around this town for a bit and eventually decided I had better stay the night since there was more rain in the forecast. Now I am at a nice little guest house by the river. Walked in the town around sunset. Bought a Cambodia map and had a fine dinner at Paddy's pub.
54 kms, ave 15,5.
I had a really good breakfast and was a bit late leaving Mae Rut. Then took small back roads through Khlong Yai to Hat Lek and the border. I was a bit concerned if the Cambodians would need more than one photo of me, since I only had one. I was looking for a photographer in Khlong Yai, but saw none.
Thai immigration was as always simple and efficient. But then entering Cambodia is quite a different story. Lots of touts and 'helpers' around who kept suggesting I should pay this and that guy some money for just doing his job. I refused. The lady at the counter where I would get my 'visa on arrival' said it would be 1500 Baht. But I insisted that it should be 20 $ and no more. Eventually she took the 20 and did her thing, but would not give me my passport back until I handed over 200 Baht. Touts suggested I change money, buy cigarettes, get a bus to Sihanoukville etc, but I stonewalled them, with a smile.
When I finally cycled away from there I noticed that one of my panniers had come off its clamps from the rear rack. I never saw how it happened but think that someone had probably tried to steal it. But I have a lock on its straps so they can not be just lifted off.
I cycled some 10 kms into Cambodia and stopped for lunch here at Krong Koh Kong. Rode around this town for a bit and eventually decided I had better stay the night since there was more rain in the forecast. Now I am at a nice little guest house by the river. Walked in the town around sunset. Bought a Cambodia map and had a fine dinner at Paddy's pub.
Mae Rut
Dec 15, 2010.
54 kms, ave 17,0, total 506 kms.
Boy did I sleep a lot in Trat! I obviously needed to catch up a bit after more intense cycling than I normally do in the first week. Like to go easy on myself in the beginning.
So I took a nap yesterday afternoon, and woke up to a heavy noise. Rain was pouring down, like real monsoon. I ran out to take the spongy seat cover off my bike before it got soaked even worse. When I went online later I checked the weather forecast and could see there was more rain coming this way in the next several days. Wasn't sure if I should wait yet another day in Trat. But I must plan ahead, towards Sihanoukville at least. Once there I hope it will be so good that it won't matter much if I have to hang around another couple of days. Not really sure what to make of Sihanoukville. I have seen quite varying reports.
So when I got up this morning I was really not sure if to leave or stay put. But it was a nice morning, a few clouds but nothing bad. So I left early, 0740 instead of my usual 0800. Had already decided to split the ride to Hat Lek in two days, and aimed for a stop at Mae Rut, where I am now at. My map shows a beach symbol, and with that I expect to find some kind of lodge and restaurants. I caught a few drops around 9 o'clock but nothing major at all.
I rolled in here already at around 1130. I could easily have gone on to Hat Lek, but feel I am in no hurry. I would quite like to cross the border before the weekend and be in Sihanoukville well before Christmas. That damn X-mas! It used to be that I could escape the whole thing by going to Hindu or Bhuddist countries, but no more. Three years ago I was in Pondicherry, India, when X-mas came around. Suddenly every waiter was decked out in red Santa hats and everywhere were thousands of tourists wanting to celebrate, and shop like crazy.
Mae Rut is really tiny. A fishing village by a very nice beach. I saw signs towards a resort already on the highway. Not that I want 'resorts', but often there is a small guest house nearby where one can enjoy the same beach for half price or less. Not so here. It took me a good while even to locate the resort, and saw no alternative places. So now I am at Mae Rut Resort. 500 Baht for a simple bungalow. I seem to be the only one staying here at the moment. The Man spoke no English, and seemed to expect no customers. He called his boss and we made a deal over cell phone. Not really the best for bargaining on the price.
Well breakfast is included , and there is an onsite restaurant for dinner.
Anyway now I have had shower, the local manager has brought me a cold Chang and I have a connection to an unsecured network. Not too bad!
Mae Rut is a very interesting village to visit. It is all about fishing here. There are some 500 households, 2-3000 inhabitants, and lots of fishing boats. Most houses are built along a river and sit on stilts. They are medium size houses where the wall facing the river is totally open. Along that side is also a concrete path, on stilts, where one can walk or even ride motorbikes. When passing there I see straight in to peoples homes, into their lives. It is fascinating and seems absolutely genuine. Tourism has so far had zero impact here, but I am not sure it will last. For the time being I hope this can be kept among cyclists only. Between you and me I can say that the beach has the whitest sand I have seen in Thailand, but also a fair bit of rubbish.
Mae Rut
54 kms, ave 17,0, total 506 kms.
Boy did I sleep a lot in Trat! I obviously needed to catch up a bit after more intense cycling than I normally do in the first week. Like to go easy on myself in the beginning.
So I took a nap yesterday afternoon, and woke up to a heavy noise. Rain was pouring down, like real monsoon. I ran out to take the spongy seat cover off my bike before it got soaked even worse. When I went online later I checked the weather forecast and could see there was more rain coming this way in the next several days. Wasn't sure if I should wait yet another day in Trat. But I must plan ahead, towards Sihanoukville at least. Once there I hope it will be so good that it won't matter much if I have to hang around another couple of days. Not really sure what to make of Sihanoukville. I have seen quite varying reports.
So when I got up this morning I was really not sure if to leave or stay put. But it was a nice morning, a few clouds but nothing bad. So I left early, 0740 instead of my usual 0800. Had already decided to split the ride to Hat Lek in two days, and aimed for a stop at Mae Rut, where I am now at. My map shows a beach symbol, and with that I expect to find some kind of lodge and restaurants. I caught a few drops around 9 o'clock but nothing major at all.
I rolled in here already at around 1130. I could easily have gone on to Hat Lek, but feel I am in no hurry. I would quite like to cross the border before the weekend and be in Sihanoukville well before Christmas. That damn X-mas! It used to be that I could escape the whole thing by going to Hindu or Bhuddist countries, but no more. Three years ago I was in Pondicherry, India, when X-mas came around. Suddenly every waiter was decked out in red Santa hats and everywhere were thousands of tourists wanting to celebrate, and shop like crazy.
Mae Rut is really tiny. A fishing village by a very nice beach. I saw signs towards a resort already on the highway. Not that I want 'resorts', but often there is a small guest house nearby where one can enjoy the same beach for half price or less. Not so here. It took me a good while even to locate the resort, and saw no alternative places. So now I am at Mae Rut Resort. 500 Baht for a simple bungalow. I seem to be the only one staying here at the moment. The Man spoke no English, and seemed to expect no customers. He called his boss and we made a deal over cell phone. Not really the best for bargaining on the price.
Well breakfast is included , and there is an onsite restaurant for dinner.
Anyway now I have had shower, the local manager has brought me a cold Chang and I have a connection to an unsecured network. Not too bad!
Mae Rut is a very interesting village to visit. It is all about fishing here. There are some 500 households, 2-3000 inhabitants, and lots of fishing boats. Most houses are built along a river and sit on stilts. They are medium size houses where the wall facing the river is totally open. Along that side is also a concrete path, on stilts, where one can walk or even ride motorbikes. When passing there I see straight in to peoples homes, into their lives. It is fascinating and seems absolutely genuine. Tourism has so far had zero impact here, but I am not sure it will last. For the time being I hope this can be kept among cyclists only. Between you and me I can say that the beach has the whitest sand I have seen in Thailand, but also a fair bit of rubbish.
Monday, December 13, 2010
Trat
Dec 13, 2010.
48 km
Today I cycled almost only on highway #3. Quite unspectacular but straight and easy. Hot though since there is rarely any shade on the highway. Found the lovely Pop Guest House where I stayed on my way to Koh Chang a couple of years ago. The lady here have a thorough reputation for being the sweetest landlady in the whole state, and thus it was no surprise to see that her guest house has grown to double size.
Sweet Trat
Managed at long last to buy a water pistol, which I plan to load with cheap whisky as a defense against nasty dogs. I love dogs and don't want to hurt them, but if I can offer a quick drink they may decide to hold off biting at me when I zip through their turf.
48 km
Today I cycled almost only on highway #3. Quite unspectacular but straight and easy. Hot though since there is rarely any shade on the highway. Found the lovely Pop Guest House where I stayed on my way to Koh Chang a couple of years ago. The lady here have a thorough reputation for being the sweetest landlady in the whole state, and thus it was no surprise to see that her guest house has grown to double size.
Managed at long last to buy a water pistol, which I plan to load with cheap whisky as a defense against nasty dogs. I love dogs and don't want to hurt them, but if I can offer a quick drink they may decide to hold off biting at me when I zip through their turf.
Khlung
Dec 12, 2010.
62 km
Today was very nice cycling, except I was so tired from the previous long day. I am glad to have my Garmin GPS. With large scale Thai maps I get to go on real rural roads. Mostly asphalted but at times also gravel roads. I came through very nice Thai villages, cycled through several rubber tree plantations and real countryside. It has been the sweetest views so far, and I get the feeling that most local people out here have rarely seen a farang before. Whenever I stop to buy some water or ice cream etc people are so nice, even though they speak no English at all.
It was too far to go all the way to Trat. It would have totaled another 100+ kms which I was not at all fit for. So I called it a day when I found a hotel here in Khlung at 2 o'clock. Now I have had my shower and a nap, done my laundry and I am going out for dinner.
Thank you Garmin for a really nice ride today. And thank you Thailand, land of smiles!
62 km
Today was very nice cycling, except I was so tired from the previous long day. I am glad to have my Garmin GPS. With large scale Thai maps I get to go on real rural roads. Mostly asphalted but at times also gravel roads. I came through very nice Thai villages, cycled through several rubber tree plantations and real countryside. It has been the sweetest views so far, and I get the feeling that most local people out here have rarely seen a farang before. Whenever I stop to buy some water or ice cream etc people are so nice, even though they speak no English at all.
It was too far to go all the way to Trat. It would have totaled another 100+ kms which I was not at all fit for. So I called it a day when I found a hotel here in Khlung at 2 o'clock. Now I have had my shower and a nap, done my laundry and I am going out for dinner.
Thank you Garmin for a really nice ride today. And thank you Thailand, land of smiles!
Khung Wiman Beach
Dec 11, 2010.
117 km
Yesterday was really long and then I spent the evening drinking beer and talking up an Englishman to think seriously about taking up bike touring. Now I have forgotten most about yesterdays cycling. I did ride quite a bit on the #3 highway, heading SE towards Trat. But I did also make attempts to get off the highway. I had seen on the map that there is a place called Khung Kraben. It has a symbol indicating beach, and some sign that this is "hidden Thailand", probably meaning that it has not yet been exploited with ugly hotels. So I hoped to get there before it is ruined. None can ruin a nice beach as quickly as the Thais.
Loaded
I turned off the highway and asked a couple of young girls at an intersection which way to take. They were sitting on an old motorcycle with a sidecar, the type that farmers use to transport things on. The girls spoke almost no English but since I could say Khung Kraben they understood what I wanted. After some debating among themselves they agreed that I should go that way, so I did. But ten minutes later they caught up with me on the motorcycle and offered more detailed explanation, in the form of drawing in a notebook they had. They sent me back out unto the highway to cycle past the first traffic light and then turn off again at the second. I was not too happy going on the highway again, but followed their advice. It was of course very sweet of them to go to the effort, and they were right too. But it was much further than I had thought. From my map I had estimated to ride maybe 60 kms. But I actually ended up going 117 before I hit the beach. And by then it was still another 20 or so to actual Khung Kraben. Instead I rolled into Khung Wiman at around five thirty, totally knackered.
I stopped at the first place I saw along the beach with some sort of sign indicating that they were open for business, a little restaurant. I asked for a room. Luckily at the back they had a couple of bungalows and one building with three rooms for rent, 400 baht. I was very glad to move in. Very sweet girl running the place!
After a shower I went for my landing beer. I was so happy to have been given a room I decided that whatever money I would spend in that area would be in their restaurant. And it was a real winner. Opposite the restaurant, on the beach side of the road were wooden tables and benches overlooking the ocean. Just the place for a cold one in the evening breeze. And there was this British guy, the first European I had seen in many hours. He is doing some volounteer work in the area and had been a week. We got to talk over a beer, and later had dinner there too. The beer was cold and large and the seafood was very very good.
I think I recruited another cyclist.
117 km
Yesterday was really long and then I spent the evening drinking beer and talking up an Englishman to think seriously about taking up bike touring. Now I have forgotten most about yesterdays cycling. I did ride quite a bit on the #3 highway, heading SE towards Trat. But I did also make attempts to get off the highway. I had seen on the map that there is a place called Khung Kraben. It has a symbol indicating beach, and some sign that this is "hidden Thailand", probably meaning that it has not yet been exploited with ugly hotels. So I hoped to get there before it is ruined. None can ruin a nice beach as quickly as the Thais.
I turned off the highway and asked a couple of young girls at an intersection which way to take. They were sitting on an old motorcycle with a sidecar, the type that farmers use to transport things on. The girls spoke almost no English but since I could say Khung Kraben they understood what I wanted. After some debating among themselves they agreed that I should go that way, so I did. But ten minutes later they caught up with me on the motorcycle and offered more detailed explanation, in the form of drawing in a notebook they had. They sent me back out unto the highway to cycle past the first traffic light and then turn off again at the second. I was not too happy going on the highway again, but followed their advice. It was of course very sweet of them to go to the effort, and they were right too. But it was much further than I had thought. From my map I had estimated to ride maybe 60 kms. But I actually ended up going 117 before I hit the beach. And by then it was still another 20 or so to actual Khung Kraben. Instead I rolled into Khung Wiman at around five thirty, totally knackered.
I stopped at the first place I saw along the beach with some sort of sign indicating that they were open for business, a little restaurant. I asked for a room. Luckily at the back they had a couple of bungalows and one building with three rooms for rent, 400 baht. I was very glad to move in. Very sweet girl running the place!
After a shower I went for my landing beer. I was so happy to have been given a room I decided that whatever money I would spend in that area would be in their restaurant. And it was a real winner. Opposite the restaurant, on the beach side of the road were wooden tables and benches overlooking the ocean. Just the place for a cold one in the evening breeze. And there was this British guy, the first European I had seen in many hours. He is doing some volounteer work in the area and had been a week. We got to talk over a beer, and later had dinner there too. The beer was cold and large and the seafood was very very good.
I think I recruited another cyclist.
Mae Ramphun Beach
Dec 10, 2010.
62 km
Must admit I have not written anything in two days. Yesterday was really long and then I spent the evening drinking beer and talking up an Englishman to think seriously about taking up tour cycling. Now I have forgotten most about prevoius days cycling. But I ended up staying in a large condominium. It was an ugly house but good room, and I did find food.
62 km
Must admit I have not written anything in two days. Yesterday was really long and then I spent the evening drinking beer and talking up an Englishman to think seriously about taking up tour cycling. Now I have forgotten most about prevoius days cycling. But I ended up staying in a large condominium. It was an ugly house but good room, and I did find food.
Phala Beach
Dec 9, 2010.
67 km
Had my new alarm clock set for 0600. Hit the snooze, and woke up at 0710. I must figure out how that new snooze actually works!
I like getting up at 6, have a shower and go out for a good breakfast. Back to my room to pack and take a dump. Drink a bottle of water and I am ready go go by 8. But alas today I did not leave until 0945, when it was already getting warmer.
Thought I would make it only half a day to recover from yesterdays long one. After some 35 kms there were signs leading to a beach. Turned off but was right soon stopped by a military guard in combat gear, helmet and a gun. He asked 'where going?' I said beach, and he said 'no.' That was about the extent of his English vocabulary. Well I am not one to argue with a machine gun. I am one a bike trip to enjoy the warm weather and good food etc. I just said OK and turned around. An hour later there was another similar guard who told me 'No entry' when it had started looking like a nice area. Even though slightly more eloquent he seemed just as serious, and I had to turn back again. From seaward this is no doubt the entry to the inner Gulf of Thailand, and Bangkok. So it is no surprise that there are military bases. So I cycled on, as it was getting hotter and hotter.
Upper Gulf of Thailand
Eventually though my traveller instincts kicked in and I turned off again towards the water, but no signs of any guest houses or such. After a while I caught up with an old western dude on a crappy looking mountain bike. I asked if there are any guest houses around and 'yes come this way' he said, a Croatian. But that one was full, and I had to go on. Then I saw another white face, and asked him. He was a Russian, a young guy from Siberia, very nice fellow. He said I could at least ask where he stays, 'follow me'. And sure enough I got a splendid room in a high rise fancy touristy looking hotel. I don't know its name since the only signs are in Thai. Nevertheless, huge room on the fifth floor, air con, hot shower, TV, fridge, balcony overlooking the ocean, and a guard in uniform keeping an eye on my bike down below.
Pepsi?
Russian, who would have thought? Yesterday as I cycled around Jomtien Beach looking for a room I saw several signs in Russian, for massage, hotels etc. And I thought 'this is no good', Russian signs attract me about as much as signs in Hebrew. I think 'why don't I go in the opposite direction'. But anyway here I am, thanks to a Russian fellow. It seems yet another chance to learn from travelling. Quite a few of them are no doubt huge, brute and drunk, but I was fortunate to learn that there are others too.
67 km
Had my new alarm clock set for 0600. Hit the snooze, and woke up at 0710. I must figure out how that new snooze actually works!
I like getting up at 6, have a shower and go out for a good breakfast. Back to my room to pack and take a dump. Drink a bottle of water and I am ready go go by 8. But alas today I did not leave until 0945, when it was already getting warmer.
Thought I would make it only half a day to recover from yesterdays long one. After some 35 kms there were signs leading to a beach. Turned off but was right soon stopped by a military guard in combat gear, helmet and a gun. He asked 'where going?' I said beach, and he said 'no.' That was about the extent of his English vocabulary. Well I am not one to argue with a machine gun. I am one a bike trip to enjoy the warm weather and good food etc. I just said OK and turned around. An hour later there was another similar guard who told me 'No entry' when it had started looking like a nice area. Even though slightly more eloquent he seemed just as serious, and I had to turn back again. From seaward this is no doubt the entry to the inner Gulf of Thailand, and Bangkok. So it is no surprise that there are military bases. So I cycled on, as it was getting hotter and hotter.
Eventually though my traveller instincts kicked in and I turned off again towards the water, but no signs of any guest houses or such. After a while I caught up with an old western dude on a crappy looking mountain bike. I asked if there are any guest houses around and 'yes come this way' he said, a Croatian. But that one was full, and I had to go on. Then I saw another white face, and asked him. He was a Russian, a young guy from Siberia, very nice fellow. He said I could at least ask where he stays, 'follow me'. And sure enough I got a splendid room in a high rise fancy touristy looking hotel. I don't know its name since the only signs are in Thai. Nevertheless, huge room on the fifth floor, air con, hot shower, TV, fridge, balcony overlooking the ocean, and a guard in uniform keeping an eye on my bike down below.
Russian, who would have thought? Yesterday as I cycled around Jomtien Beach looking for a room I saw several signs in Russian, for massage, hotels etc. And I thought 'this is no good', Russian signs attract me about as much as signs in Hebrew. I think 'why don't I go in the opposite direction'. But anyway here I am, thanks to a Russian fellow. It seems yet another chance to learn from travelling. Quite a few of them are no doubt huge, brute and drunk, but I was fortunate to learn that there are others too.
Jomtien Beach
Jomtien Beach, Dec 8, 2010.
83 km
Leaving Bangkok with a bike in a SouthEasterly direction is not that easy.
After five days in big B I was thoroughly fed up with city life. Bangkok is a good place to start a trip in SE Asia, no doubt. You can buy everything, there are lots of hotels and guest houses and restaurants to cater for every possible taste. But there is also traffic ad nauseum and touts driving you nuts with their endless offers. I was most definitely ready to leave town.
But how? I don't at all fancy cycling out of this giant metropolis. It would take a whole day just to reach city limits, if indeed there are any. There is only one train going anywhere near the direction I want, and that one leaves Bangkok at 0655 in the morning. And even worse, it has no cargo car, so you are not allowed to take a bike on it.
I ended up taking a taxi to Chonburi, some 80 kms away, 800 Baht. It was more than worth it.
The guy dropped me off at 0915. I started my cycling at 0930. Meant to ride maybe 40 kms or so. But I had a tail wind and was doing good speed, and kept on going. Eventually I rode into Pattaya. Never been there before, and never thought I would go. It is a disgusting place in everywhich way. Hundreds of hotels and bars clumped closely together. A narrow slithe of beach that is totally unimpressive. Probably hoteliers and restaurateurs built on all available land, and then some got together and bribed whoever to build another row of hotels in front of the original one. And then some landfill to make a road in front of the hotels. Bingo, you have a beach less than 10 meters wide, and steep.
I walked on the promende for a bit and then cycled on. Eventually I got to Jomtien Beach, a bit south of Pattaya. There I found a nice little guest house, with a sweet landlady. Ended up riding 81 kms, way too much for a first day. My butt was sore, legs tired, and I was hot and sweaty. Lovely shower and then a cold Chang beer. Had a pretty decent dinner, did my laundry and was in bed shortly after nine.
83 km
Leaving Bangkok with a bike in a SouthEasterly direction is not that easy.
After five days in big B I was thoroughly fed up with city life. Bangkok is a good place to start a trip in SE Asia, no doubt. You can buy everything, there are lots of hotels and guest houses and restaurants to cater for every possible taste. But there is also traffic ad nauseum and touts driving you nuts with their endless offers. I was most definitely ready to leave town.
But how? I don't at all fancy cycling out of this giant metropolis. It would take a whole day just to reach city limits, if indeed there are any. There is only one train going anywhere near the direction I want, and that one leaves Bangkok at 0655 in the morning. And even worse, it has no cargo car, so you are not allowed to take a bike on it.
I ended up taking a taxi to Chonburi, some 80 kms away, 800 Baht. It was more than worth it.
The guy dropped me off at 0915. I started my cycling at 0930. Meant to ride maybe 40 kms or so. But I had a tail wind and was doing good speed, and kept on going. Eventually I rode into Pattaya. Never been there before, and never thought I would go. It is a disgusting place in everywhich way. Hundreds of hotels and bars clumped closely together. A narrow slithe of beach that is totally unimpressive. Probably hoteliers and restaurateurs built on all available land, and then some got together and bribed whoever to build another row of hotels in front of the original one. And then some landfill to make a road in front of the hotels. Bingo, you have a beach less than 10 meters wide, and steep.
I walked on the promende for a bit and then cycled on. Eventually I got to Jomtien Beach, a bit south of Pattaya. There I found a nice little guest house, with a sweet landlady. Ended up riding 81 kms, way too much for a first day. My butt was sore, legs tired, and I was hot and sweaty. Lovely shower and then a cold Chang beer. Had a pretty decent dinner, did my laundry and was in bed shortly after nine.
Tuesday, December 07, 2010
Wrapping up Bangkok
Gee I am sick of this big city now! So much traffic and a zillion tourists.
I have just picked up my bike and fitted most of the gear I need to have on it, like side stand, odometer, and the thing for my new handle bar bag. Tomorrow I am off.
I will start with a train South a few hours just to get out from the city. Don't fancy riding through all of Bangkok. Have not figured out exactly where to go by train, but trust the girls at Hua Lamphong will have some idea.
I ended up buying the Trek 3900, which is a simpler and cheaper model than the 4300 I actually wanted. This is a bit heavier and has somewhat simpler gears, still Shimano though. The bike cost me 11 000 Baht, less than 300 Euros.
Last time I was in Thailand I met a Dutch girl who had that same model, and she was very pleased with it. She had meant to sell it back to the shop but liked it so much she decided to take it home.
New Trek 3900
I have just picked up my bike and fitted most of the gear I need to have on it, like side stand, odometer, and the thing for my new handle bar bag. Tomorrow I am off.
I will start with a train South a few hours just to get out from the city. Don't fancy riding through all of Bangkok. Have not figured out exactly where to go by train, but trust the girls at Hua Lamphong will have some idea.
I ended up buying the Trek 3900, which is a simpler and cheaper model than the 4300 I actually wanted. This is a bit heavier and has somewhat simpler gears, still Shimano though. The bike cost me 11 000 Baht, less than 300 Euros.
Last time I was in Thailand I met a Dutch girl who had that same model, and she was very pleased with it. She had meant to sell it back to the shop but liked it so much she decided to take it home.
Saturday, December 04, 2010
Bangkok Dec 4 2010.
Bangkok Dec 4, 2010.
I am a bit pissed off with the bicycle shop. Two years ago I bought a Trek 4300 off him and was very pleased with it all. Took the bike home and still have it. 21" frame which was a tad large for me, but I got used to it and often find myself having a lot of power in my legs when I ride it.
Yesterday after landing at dawn and a nap, I went over there to inquire in general on price etc. He showed me this years model Trek 4300 and said I could have it in 19,5" frame, which would be fine. He would throw in a rear rack as a "promotional" thing. 16 000 Baht including fitting my own tyres. I was jet lagged and tired and did not want to place an order, but said I'd be back.
But when I went there today, bringing my tyres and a wad of money he suddenly says the 4300 is only available as 18".
Now I am in a quander whether to take that or shop around. I am lazy and hate going to the awful Sukhumvit area and the bike shops there.
Tomorrow is the King's birthday and I expect many shops to be closed. I will go to the river and take in a floating down the river of barges to commemorate the occasion.
Sukhumvit
I come from a monarchy myself, but in general think of our king as a doofus, whom we tolerate only because he has absolutely no power. Along with many other foreigners here I am sometimes a bit baffled by the total love and respect the Thais have for their king. But then again if you compare Thailand to to its next door neighbors, the Lao and Cambodians, one has to see that they are certainly a lot better off here. It is no doubt free reign capitalism in Thailand. And ugly as it may be, it does actually work.
Everything is available, and tourists are flocking here, spending like mad. Many thousands of jobs are created in the tourist wake, and even though quite a few are no doubt poorly paid, it does at least offer an opportunity to get by.
A few years ago I met an interesting Canadian guy in Cambodia. He was working for an NGO and had been several years in Cambodia.
He said that there is so little economic activity in Laos and Cambodia that it is questionable if they at all deserve to exist as sovereign countries. He said that as for the Thais their eastern economical border is towards Vietnam, and the Vietnamese think of Thailand as their western economical neighbor. Laos and Cambodia are only a few hundred kilometers of bad road.
He said it could well be that within the next 20 years or so Thailand and Vietnam may decide to invade and split the two small and ill functioning countries in between them.
At first the poor Lao and Khmer would of course resist being invaded and "assimilated". But soon they would realize that with better roads, better schools, functioning hospitals, economic growth, and actual elections they would be much better off.
I do love Laos as it is, slow, a bit behind, gentle and friendly. But I do also feel a little sorry for them. I get the feeling that they have always had bad governance. Unwise kings followed by a communist regime that is mostly interested in preserving their hold on power.
I am a bit pissed off with the bicycle shop. Two years ago I bought a Trek 4300 off him and was very pleased with it all. Took the bike home and still have it. 21" frame which was a tad large for me, but I got used to it and often find myself having a lot of power in my legs when I ride it.
Yesterday after landing at dawn and a nap, I went over there to inquire in general on price etc. He showed me this years model Trek 4300 and said I could have it in 19,5" frame, which would be fine. He would throw in a rear rack as a "promotional" thing. 16 000 Baht including fitting my own tyres. I was jet lagged and tired and did not want to place an order, but said I'd be back.
But when I went there today, bringing my tyres and a wad of money he suddenly says the 4300 is only available as 18".
Now I am in a quander whether to take that or shop around. I am lazy and hate going to the awful Sukhumvit area and the bike shops there.
Tomorrow is the King's birthday and I expect many shops to be closed. I will go to the river and take in a floating down the river of barges to commemorate the occasion.
I come from a monarchy myself, but in general think of our king as a doofus, whom we tolerate only because he has absolutely no power. Along with many other foreigners here I am sometimes a bit baffled by the total love and respect the Thais have for their king. But then again if you compare Thailand to to its next door neighbors, the Lao and Cambodians, one has to see that they are certainly a lot better off here. It is no doubt free reign capitalism in Thailand. And ugly as it may be, it does actually work.
Everything is available, and tourists are flocking here, spending like mad. Many thousands of jobs are created in the tourist wake, and even though quite a few are no doubt poorly paid, it does at least offer an opportunity to get by.
A few years ago I met an interesting Canadian guy in Cambodia. He was working for an NGO and had been several years in Cambodia.
He said that there is so little economic activity in Laos and Cambodia that it is questionable if they at all deserve to exist as sovereign countries. He said that as for the Thais their eastern economical border is towards Vietnam, and the Vietnamese think of Thailand as their western economical neighbor. Laos and Cambodia are only a few hundred kilometers of bad road.
He said it could well be that within the next 20 years or so Thailand and Vietnam may decide to invade and split the two small and ill functioning countries in between them.
At first the poor Lao and Khmer would of course resist being invaded and "assimilated". But soon they would realize that with better roads, better schools, functioning hospitals, economic growth, and actual elections they would be much better off.
I do love Laos as it is, slow, a bit behind, gentle and friendly. But I do also feel a little sorry for them. I get the feeling that they have always had bad governance. Unwise kings followed by a communist regime that is mostly interested in preserving their hold on power.
Changes
Jag har insett att flera av mina svenska vänner ändå inte läser min reseblogg, och att en del utlänningar jag träffat, som fått adressen för att se på några bilder, gnäller över att ínte förstå språket. Därför byter jag nu till Engelska. Svenskarna kan läsa ändå om de vill.
I have realized that several of my Swedish friends don't read my blog at all, and that some foreigners to whom I have given the address to "look at some pictures" complains over not being able to read the language. So now I switch to English. The Swedes can read it it anyway if they try.
Here we go!
I have realized that several of my Swedish friends don't read my blog at all, and that some foreigners to whom I have given the address to "look at some pictures" complains over not being able to read the language. So now I switch to English. The Swedes can read it it anyway if they try.
Here we go!
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Hemma igen
Likt en flyttfågel har jag återvänt till nordliga breddgrader så här lagom till vårdagjämningen. Men det har varit dåligt med våren än så länge.
No cycling yet
Största problemet här är för mycket snö. Det sabbar skridskoåkningen och är i vägen när man vill cykla en runda. Dessutom är det djäkligt halt på trottoarerna i stan. Tydligen har det varit så här i flera månader. Skönt att jag varit bortrest!
Största problemet här är för mycket snö. Det sabbar skridskoåkningen och är i vägen när man vill cykla en runda. Dessutom är det djäkligt halt på trottoarerna i stan. Tydligen har det varit så här i flera månader. Skönt att jag varit bortrest!
Thursday, March 11, 2010
Tullock Road
Tullock Road
Tror jag hittat en ny favvogata i Bombay i kväll. Lilla Tullock Rd är en parallellgata till Colaba Causeway, i dess norra ände, och bara ett kvarter lång. Den verkar ganska muslimsk. Där ligger bl a Baghdad Café, med namnskylt i såväl romerska bokstäver som hindi och arabiska.
Annars blir det ju mycket Colaba Causeway och Madam Cama Rd när man är här. Best Marg förstås och Henry Rd. I början på min Bombaytid bodde jag mest på Rex Hotel på Best Marg. Men det är nu länge sedan de klädde in det gamla trähotellet i betong och döpte om till Regent, och bytte kundkrets från backpackers till gulf-araber. Sedan dess har jag aldrig varit dit. Nu bor jag på Bentley's på Oliver Rd, ett välordnat plejs med justa rum, fast lite dyrare. Man kan boka hemifrån över nätet eller med mobiltelefon från Goa. Skönt att ha en bokning som funkar om man kommer mitt i natten från Europa eller i arla morgon med nattåget.
På Tullock Rd får man fortfarande en chai för 3 rupees, 45 öre. Granne ligger en "scrap merchant" med ca 3 meter storefront och utanför sitter snubbar och skalar olika långa bitar kopparkabel. Det är liv och rörelse i hela gatan. Män och kvinnor som pratar över en chai, ungar som leker med skräp, allehanda nasare som vill sälja fan vet allt. Små restauranger och underliga affärer, doggar, kråkor och en katt som försöker vara osynlig. Det är så Indiskt att man kan få en tår i ögat.
Bombay ja. Innan jag kom hit första gången hade jag mest hört skit om den här staden. Sjömän som varit här med båt berättade om horder av råttor och om döingar som låg på trottoarerna insvepta i enkelt tygstycke. De visste förstås inte att på morgonen vecklade "döingarna" ut sig ur sin svepning och gick vidare till en ny dag i livet. De var bara hemlösa, kanske nyanlända till stan som ännu inte hittat ett mer permanent boende, i en slum eller så. Varje dag anländer tusentals nya från landsbygden till denna gyllene stad där pengarna flödar som ingen annan stans i detta stora land. Här är medelinkomsten ca 1000 dollar om året, 3 gånger så mycket som i resterande Indien. Här finns jobb med lön i kontanter, och möjlighet att bli en Slum Dog Millionaire.
På 80-talet var det inte ovanligt ute i mindre orter att snubbarna som serverade på restaurang inte bodde någonstans alls utan sov på bänkar, bord eller golvet i själva restaurangen när sista gästerna gått. De hade ingen egentlig lön utan tjänade bara de enstaka Rupees de fick i dricks. Ärligt talat var de knappt riktiga människor. De var skitiga, hade bara ett ställ kläder, visste inget, kunde inte läsa och skriva, gick aldrig någonstans och kom heller aldrig vidare. De överlevde från dag till dag, något mer mäktade de inte med. Så kommer man till Bombay. Där har flunken någon slags tjänsteklädsel. Utanför restaurangen har han sin vespa parkerad, och åker hem till lägenhet och familj när arbetet är slut. Där har han en svartvit TV och kollar nyheterna. Han läser tidningen varje dag och är intresserad av cricket. Han vet hur det gått i senaste omgången av Champions League och ser skillnad på Svensk och Italienare. Man kan snacka med honom.
Numera är det riktigt bra fart i Indisk ekonomi. De som kommit upp sig lite har nu ätit ordentligt i ett par generationer och vuxit upp till sin fulla genetiska potential. Den nya generationen Bombayites är lika stora som Europeer. Välutbildade och självsäkra, men lika fantastiskt artiga och vänliga som tidigare. På tåget hit från Margao delade jag kupé med ett gäng ungdomar som varit på basket-turné. En grabb frågade om vi spelar basket i Sverige, och när jag sa nej sa han att det är väl mest fotboll då. "Ibrahimovich han är väl svensk" sa killen, och Henrik Larsson, och så han vars namn man inte kan uttala, Freddy Ljungberg. Jodå. När någon känner till Henrik Larsson så tar jag den personen till mitt hjärta och hoppas det ska dyka upp ett tillfälle då jag kan få göra en gentjänst, visa min respekt. Bara alltför sällan får jag chansen att återgälda.
När ungdomarna höll på att inta kupén med allt sitt gepäck, alla i shorts och T-shirt, killar och tjejer, mobiltelefon i ena handen, frågade en 20-årig tjej om hon fick ta en slurk vatten ur min flaska. Så gärna förstås. Och hon drack ordentligt med munnen till flaskan som den mest självklara sak. Tack så mycket. Det gladde mig mer än du kan ana att se denna självsäkerhet. Att de tog för givet att vi var lika mycket värda. Så har det inte alltid varit, är det fortfarande inte utanför Bombay.
Så jag älskar denna stad, detta land och detta folk! Jag har varit förälskad i Indien länge redan, men det har djupnat flera gånger om under den här cykelturen. På hojen har jag klivit ner till deras nivå, eller är det kanske upp, och kommit närmre inpå än tidigare. Jag har varit tvungen be om hjälp, fråga om vägen, undra om det finns någonstans att bo, var kan man äta. Överallt, och jag säger igen, överallt, har jag mötts av en sådan vänlighet och hjälpsamhet att man ständigt dras med dåligt samvete över att inte kunna ge tillbaks på riktigt.
På cykelturen har bokstavligen hundratals okända människor kommit med uppmuntrande tillrop, vinkat och tutat och tyckt det var kul att jag var där. I en liten by där jag stannat till för en chai, var det några som var för dåliga på språk för att vi skulle kunna konversera mycket. Men så dök det upp en man som snackade bra engelska, kanske skolläraren. Han sa att de just skulle hålla en festival i byn, Pongal tror jag den hette. Han ville att jag skulle komma och inviga den. Jag slingrade mig och sa att jag vet ju inget om det där.
"All the children in the village are excited that you are here", sa han. Säkert lite överdrivet, men ändå. Jag bodde ju inte ens över natten där, hade bara stannat till tio minuter för ett glas chai! Tyvärr, jag ångrar mig nu, avböjde jag vänligt men bestämt. Klockan var ca 10 och jag hade betat av kanske 25 av de typ 80 km jag skulle cykla under dagen. Jag ville dra ett antal kilometer till innan värsta värmen small till. Han sa att det hela skulle startas om en halvtimma. Fast egentligen var det kanske en hel timma. Och sen tar det hela en stund och så är det någon som vill bjuda på mat, eller kanske sweets. Och så är det många som vill snacka med en. Det hade säkert dragit ut på tiden och blivit en kämpig dag innan jag kom fram. Men visst borde jag gjort det, det insåg jag rätt snart jag kvistat vidare, och har ångrat mig sedan dess.
I går cyklade jag upp till Bandra, till en cykelshop där som ska serva hojen och packa in den i en låda som duger åt flygbolaget. När jag klev in i en taxi för att åka tillbaks till South Bombay, kom en man förbi och sa "I wish you a safe journey!". Tänk så har jag aldrig sagt till någon okänd som ska ta en taxi. Han tillade också att han hoppades taxidrivern inte skulle lura mig på pengar. Jag har åtskilliga gånger blivit varnad av Indier för andra Indier. Att de skall försöka lura mig eller robba mig. Fast det har aldrig skett. Bombaytaxina är hur justa som helst, kör raka vägen och på taxameter. Många gånger har jag sett att de väntar utanför för att se att jag kom ordentligt in, innan de åker vidare.
Min kompis Sigge som är en seriös Indienfarare, eller kanske varit, det börjar bli ett tag sen nu, sa en gång att "Det finns inte en chans att jag kan ge tillbaks allt jag fått i Indien. Hur jag än bär mig åt kan jag aldrig återgälda den värme, vänlighet och omtanke de här människorna visat mig." Så är det nog tyvärr. Men man borde kanske anstränga sig lite mer att försöka iaf.
Lars
Tror jag hittat en ny favvogata i Bombay i kväll. Lilla Tullock Rd är en parallellgata till Colaba Causeway, i dess norra ände, och bara ett kvarter lång. Den verkar ganska muslimsk. Där ligger bl a Baghdad Café, med namnskylt i såväl romerska bokstäver som hindi och arabiska.
Annars blir det ju mycket Colaba Causeway och Madam Cama Rd när man är här. Best Marg förstås och Henry Rd. I början på min Bombaytid bodde jag mest på Rex Hotel på Best Marg. Men det är nu länge sedan de klädde in det gamla trähotellet i betong och döpte om till Regent, och bytte kundkrets från backpackers till gulf-araber. Sedan dess har jag aldrig varit dit. Nu bor jag på Bentley's på Oliver Rd, ett välordnat plejs med justa rum, fast lite dyrare. Man kan boka hemifrån över nätet eller med mobiltelefon från Goa. Skönt att ha en bokning som funkar om man kommer mitt i natten från Europa eller i arla morgon med nattåget.
På Tullock Rd får man fortfarande en chai för 3 rupees, 45 öre. Granne ligger en "scrap merchant" med ca 3 meter storefront och utanför sitter snubbar och skalar olika långa bitar kopparkabel. Det är liv och rörelse i hela gatan. Män och kvinnor som pratar över en chai, ungar som leker med skräp, allehanda nasare som vill sälja fan vet allt. Små restauranger och underliga affärer, doggar, kråkor och en katt som försöker vara osynlig. Det är så Indiskt att man kan få en tår i ögat.
Bombay ja. Innan jag kom hit första gången hade jag mest hört skit om den här staden. Sjömän som varit här med båt berättade om horder av råttor och om döingar som låg på trottoarerna insvepta i enkelt tygstycke. De visste förstås inte att på morgonen vecklade "döingarna" ut sig ur sin svepning och gick vidare till en ny dag i livet. De var bara hemlösa, kanske nyanlända till stan som ännu inte hittat ett mer permanent boende, i en slum eller så. Varje dag anländer tusentals nya från landsbygden till denna gyllene stad där pengarna flödar som ingen annan stans i detta stora land. Här är medelinkomsten ca 1000 dollar om året, 3 gånger så mycket som i resterande Indien. Här finns jobb med lön i kontanter, och möjlighet att bli en Slum Dog Millionaire.
På 80-talet var det inte ovanligt ute i mindre orter att snubbarna som serverade på restaurang inte bodde någonstans alls utan sov på bänkar, bord eller golvet i själva restaurangen när sista gästerna gått. De hade ingen egentlig lön utan tjänade bara de enstaka Rupees de fick i dricks. Ärligt talat var de knappt riktiga människor. De var skitiga, hade bara ett ställ kläder, visste inget, kunde inte läsa och skriva, gick aldrig någonstans och kom heller aldrig vidare. De överlevde från dag till dag, något mer mäktade de inte med. Så kommer man till Bombay. Där har flunken någon slags tjänsteklädsel. Utanför restaurangen har han sin vespa parkerad, och åker hem till lägenhet och familj när arbetet är slut. Där har han en svartvit TV och kollar nyheterna. Han läser tidningen varje dag och är intresserad av cricket. Han vet hur det gått i senaste omgången av Champions League och ser skillnad på Svensk och Italienare. Man kan snacka med honom.
Numera är det riktigt bra fart i Indisk ekonomi. De som kommit upp sig lite har nu ätit ordentligt i ett par generationer och vuxit upp till sin fulla genetiska potential. Den nya generationen Bombayites är lika stora som Europeer. Välutbildade och självsäkra, men lika fantastiskt artiga och vänliga som tidigare. På tåget hit från Margao delade jag kupé med ett gäng ungdomar som varit på basket-turné. En grabb frågade om vi spelar basket i Sverige, och när jag sa nej sa han att det är väl mest fotboll då. "Ibrahimovich han är väl svensk" sa killen, och Henrik Larsson, och så han vars namn man inte kan uttala, Freddy Ljungberg. Jodå. När någon känner till Henrik Larsson så tar jag den personen till mitt hjärta och hoppas det ska dyka upp ett tillfälle då jag kan få göra en gentjänst, visa min respekt. Bara alltför sällan får jag chansen att återgälda.
När ungdomarna höll på att inta kupén med allt sitt gepäck, alla i shorts och T-shirt, killar och tjejer, mobiltelefon i ena handen, frågade en 20-årig tjej om hon fick ta en slurk vatten ur min flaska. Så gärna förstås. Och hon drack ordentligt med munnen till flaskan som den mest självklara sak. Tack så mycket. Det gladde mig mer än du kan ana att se denna självsäkerhet. Att de tog för givet att vi var lika mycket värda. Så har det inte alltid varit, är det fortfarande inte utanför Bombay.
Så jag älskar denna stad, detta land och detta folk! Jag har varit förälskad i Indien länge redan, men det har djupnat flera gånger om under den här cykelturen. På hojen har jag klivit ner till deras nivå, eller är det kanske upp, och kommit närmre inpå än tidigare. Jag har varit tvungen be om hjälp, fråga om vägen, undra om det finns någonstans att bo, var kan man äta. Överallt, och jag säger igen, överallt, har jag mötts av en sådan vänlighet och hjälpsamhet att man ständigt dras med dåligt samvete över att inte kunna ge tillbaks på riktigt.
På cykelturen har bokstavligen hundratals okända människor kommit med uppmuntrande tillrop, vinkat och tutat och tyckt det var kul att jag var där. I en liten by där jag stannat till för en chai, var det några som var för dåliga på språk för att vi skulle kunna konversera mycket. Men så dök det upp en man som snackade bra engelska, kanske skolläraren. Han sa att de just skulle hålla en festival i byn, Pongal tror jag den hette. Han ville att jag skulle komma och inviga den. Jag slingrade mig och sa att jag vet ju inget om det där.
"All the children in the village are excited that you are here", sa han. Säkert lite överdrivet, men ändå. Jag bodde ju inte ens över natten där, hade bara stannat till tio minuter för ett glas chai! Tyvärr, jag ångrar mig nu, avböjde jag vänligt men bestämt. Klockan var ca 10 och jag hade betat av kanske 25 av de typ 80 km jag skulle cykla under dagen. Jag ville dra ett antal kilometer till innan värsta värmen small till. Han sa att det hela skulle startas om en halvtimma. Fast egentligen var det kanske en hel timma. Och sen tar det hela en stund och så är det någon som vill bjuda på mat, eller kanske sweets. Och så är det många som vill snacka med en. Det hade säkert dragit ut på tiden och blivit en kämpig dag innan jag kom fram. Men visst borde jag gjort det, det insåg jag rätt snart jag kvistat vidare, och har ångrat mig sedan dess.
I går cyklade jag upp till Bandra, till en cykelshop där som ska serva hojen och packa in den i en låda som duger åt flygbolaget. När jag klev in i en taxi för att åka tillbaks till South Bombay, kom en man förbi och sa "I wish you a safe journey!". Tänk så har jag aldrig sagt till någon okänd som ska ta en taxi. Han tillade också att han hoppades taxidrivern inte skulle lura mig på pengar. Jag har åtskilliga gånger blivit varnad av Indier för andra Indier. Att de skall försöka lura mig eller robba mig. Fast det har aldrig skett. Bombaytaxina är hur justa som helst, kör raka vägen och på taxameter. Många gånger har jag sett att de väntar utanför för att se att jag kom ordentligt in, innan de åker vidare.
Min kompis Sigge som är en seriös Indienfarare, eller kanske varit, det börjar bli ett tag sen nu, sa en gång att "Det finns inte en chans att jag kan ge tillbaks allt jag fått i Indien. Hur jag än bär mig åt kan jag aldrig återgälda den värme, vänlighet och omtanke de här människorna visat mig." Så är det nog tyvärr. Men man borde kanske anstränga sig lite mer att försöka iaf.
Lars
Saturday, March 06, 2010
Goa
Efter Gokarna cyklade jag vidare norrut till Goa. Först två dagar vid Palolem och sen efter stopover i Panjim vidare till Vagator.
Det svider fortfarande att Vagator inte längre är som det var på 80-talet. Men när man väl accepterat att det aldrig kommer tillbaks, så är det ändå rätt OK här. Goanerna är lika vänliga som alltid, eller kanske ännu mer nu när dom har lite mer att jämföra med. På senare år har Goa invaderats av Ryssar, massor av Ryssar. Goanerna säger att Ryssarna visserligen har mycket pengar och spenderar av glatta livet, men också att de är otrevliga och fula i mun. En lady sa till mig i går att de snackar som Mafiosos, det är väl också vad många av dom är.
Elefant som äter en munk och samtidigt välsignar mig
Vackert och rart
Lathundar
Small Vagator
Vatten på Chapora Beach
Eknath med familj
Det svider fortfarande att Vagator inte längre är som det var på 80-talet. Men när man väl accepterat att det aldrig kommer tillbaks, så är det ändå rätt OK här. Goanerna är lika vänliga som alltid, eller kanske ännu mer nu när dom har lite mer att jämföra med. På senare år har Goa invaderats av Ryssar, massor av Ryssar. Goanerna säger att Ryssarna visserligen har mycket pengar och spenderar av glatta livet, men också att de är otrevliga och fula i mun. En lady sa till mig i går att de snackar som Mafiosos, det är väl också vad många av dom är.
Friday, March 05, 2010
Heavy going vid Om Beach
Jag var 6 dagar på Om Beach. Det tyngsta jag gjorde var att ligga i hängmattan och läsa Joyce Carol Oates' "We Were The Mulvaneys". Hon har ju varit på tapeten för Nobelpris i flera år, men aldrig fått något. När jag nu läst henne för första gången vill jag gärna hålla med Nobelkommittén.
Hon gör underbara porträtt av människor och miljöer, men sen händer ju liksom inget!
Lasse
Hon gör underbara porträtt av människor och miljöer, men sen händer ju liksom inget!
Lasse
Thursday, February 25, 2010
Thursday, February 18, 2010
Und so weiter
Jag svängde in om Cherai Beach en kväll och natt. Det är än så länge mest bara Indier där, och många. Det var en söndag och nuförtiden har många Keraliter bil eller motorcykel. De som är lediga på söndagen vill förstås gärna göra en utflykt. Själva badandet har de inte riktigt blivit bra på ännu. De vill, men törs inte. Alltså går de lite i vattenbrynet med alla kläder på, även skor. Ofta slutar det med något slags dopp ändå. Och så dyngsur i bilen hem.
Bridge over calm waters
Själva stranden
Sen tänkte jag ta mig upp till lite högre höjd for att få svalare. Hojade till Thrissur. Fast det var lika varmt där, och många fler mosquitos. Så igår drog jag ut åt kusten igen och är nu i Calicut. I morgon bitti ska jag ta tåget till Mangalore. Det är typ 4 cykeldagar dit och jag måste vila benen lite. Har nu 1350 km på min cykeldator.
Sen tänkte jag ta mig upp till lite högre höjd for att få svalare. Hojade till Thrissur. Fast det var lika varmt där, och många fler mosquitos. Så igår drog jag ut åt kusten igen och är nu i Calicut. I morgon bitti ska jag ta tåget till Mangalore. Det är typ 4 cykeldagar dit och jag måste vila benen lite. Har nu 1350 km på min cykeldator.
Cochin
Cochin har haft besök av Europeer i olika omgångar redan från tidigt 1500-tal. Det var Portugiser, Holländare och forstås Britter. I de mindre turistiska delarna av stan finns fortfarande kvar gamla hus i dessa olika stilar. Alltså 500 år gamla kåkar som bara är där, as if nothing had happened!
När jag cyklade in i stan söderifrån kom jag på Bazaar Street, som var rena medeltidsutfykten. Men jag var varm som attan och ville mest bara hitta ett lodge och få mig en dusch. Så jag fotograferade inget. Tog några bilder nästa dag, men borde nog varit mer ambitiös med det där.
Renoverad
Inte
Här rent av doftade det medeltida!
När jag cyklade in i stan söderifrån kom jag på Bazaar Street, som var rena medeltidsutfykten. Men jag var varm som attan och ville mest bara hitta ett lodge och få mig en dusch. Så jag fotograferade inget. Tog några bilder nästa dag, men borde nog varit mer ambitiös med det där.
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Backwater trip Quilon - Aleppey
Ett place som Varkala är inte lätt att lämna, ens på cykel. Men när jag småningom kom till skott hojade jag bara till Quilon, via Kapil Beach. Nästa dag åkte jag "backwater trip" till Aleppey. Nu har jag cyklat vidare till Fort Cochin. Här var väldigt rart för 25 år sedan, men är nu totalt invaderat av turister. Det är fastrar och farbröder, barnfamiljer och feta holländare överallt. Kanske är det också lite renare och näpnare, men inte lika Indiskt som då.
Monday, February 08, 2010
Varkala
Varkala är fortfarande coolt. Det är en hel del turister här också, men av lite annan sort. Många tycks iofs komma med charterflyg, men de stannar 3-4 veckor, och smälter då in på ett annat sätt än veckoturisterna i Kovalam. Mest är det travellers-vibbar som gäller. Nere på själva beachen finns inga restauranger el likn, utan man bor och äter uppe på klippan.
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