Shrivardan - Anjarle, Jan 26, 2012.
51 km
Coastal roadOverall I think this has been my nicest cycling day ever. I ride together with Julian. We cycle as near the coast as possible, and have to cross two river mouths by boats. The first one, from Hareshwar to Bankot, is quite straightforward. The boat runs on some kind of schedule, and people knows from where.
It is a quite small boat and I am amazed at how many motorcycles they can load on it. Plus of course our bicycles with panniers and all. The charge for us with bikes is only 10 Rs each.
We stop for a snack at Bankot before riding on. The stuff we get is proably the same as I had for breakfast several times up North, called Pooha. It is not a real meal but still somewhat filling.
BankotWe go along small roads and come along very nice roads with many trees and lovely shade. For several hours we cycle right next to the coast and see many fine beaches. We come through sweet villages where lots of children greet us with Hellos, and older people call out 'Good Morning' and 'Welcome to India'. I am very pleased to come this route. Today is also the Republic Day in India, sort of a National Day even though not in name.
BeachesSome of the small roads are not in very good shape, but there are also long stretches were the road just could not have been better.
Cycling along the coastWe had some idea of maybe stopping at Kelshi. Then our first boat captain says that Kelshi is not all that nice, and recommends we continue on to Anjarle.
The second boat we have to take to reach Kelshi is a good bit more iffy. There is no schedule and some confusion about where it actually runs from. Eventually we come down on some rocks just by the water where there are three fellows waiting. They say the boat will come here. And they start calling out for the boatman. We see a very small boat, like a large canoe being punted across the river, but it does not land anywhere near where we are waiting. After some time there is a motorpowered boat that make a landing a couple of hundred meters from where we are. Julian pops over to ask. The man says his is a private boat but he will take us to Kelsi for 40 Rs each. We accept and get our things onboard. Then the three fellows who had been waiting on the rocks board as well. When the boat came across in our direction it was on motor but going back the boatman punts us across with a long bamboo pole. We expect him to take us right into Kelshi which is visible from afar. But instead he lands us on a beach where there is nothing around. Well there is a trail that leads off the beach and the men say it goes to Kelshi. We load up and take that trail. Very soon we come to the outskirts of town and find a little restaurant where we get good food with refills for a most decent price.
Kelsi river landingThen we continue on and have no problem finding Anjarle Beach. There is a little charming resort that unfortunately is all full. Julian wants to camp on the beach and cook his own food. The lady tells me that I can find a room at Mr Sarthe's only five minutes away, and that I can come back to her resort for dinner. I find Sarthe's house and get a huge room that looks more like a dormitory with some 8 beds. He says I can have it for 1200 Rs, and I move in. It is almost 6 o'clock and I hate being out looking for a room that late.
Big spider on my wall in GuhagarI have a bucket shower with really hot water and then go back to the resort around 7. The lady does not speak much English but helpful guests from Bombay helps with translation, and I place an order for prawns masala. But I must wait till 9 pm for dinner. When I finally get it around 930 it is a fish masala.