Bombay (Colaba) 2

Mandve - Bombay (Colaba), March 11, 2012.

19 km

Checkout was already at 0830 at the guest house near the jetty at Mandve. Then I had a 10 km ride to the other jetty at Rewas. The boat from there landed me in Port of Bombay, from where I had another 9 km to ride down to Colaba.

The best rooms at Carlton were already occupied but I got another OK one for 1200 Rs. Outside bath though.

It is good to be back in Bombay again. The very last bit of cycling for this trip will be riding up to Bandra W tomorrow to turn my bike in for service and boxing.


Gps track of my cycle trip in India. 3808 km, 67 cycling days. 57 km/day

Mandve

Murud - Mandve, March 10, 2012.

72 km

Up early and left at 0915. I realised it would be possible to ride all the way to Mandve today, and probably also come across the bay to Bombay if I so wanted. Not that I really had any urgent business in Bombay, but anyway.

There are a few hills even up here but much less so than further South. At around 12 I stopped in a noisy little town for an ice cream. When I was enjoying my cone another cyclist rode into town and stopped for a chat. It was Matt from Australia. He has cycled from Delhi and is heading all the way to Kerala. He is actually the first cyclist I have met going in the opposite direction on this entire trip. It is good meeting someone coming from where I am just about to go. In this case though he could not really tell me anything about the way I did not already know. Well, he could have told me that the normal boats between Gateway of India and Mandve are suspended for five days due to the Indian Prime Minister visiting Bombay, but he didn't. Matt had come across from Bombay yesterday afternoon and stayed the night at a guest house just by the Mandve Jetty.


I thought I knew which guest house he meant and happily cycled on to the jetty where I had arrived a month ago. When I got here I was told about the boat suspension and that I would have to cycle to another jetty some 10 km away, and from there take a boat to somewhere other in Bombay than Gateway of India. I guess Matt was unaware of what boat he could not take and what Mandve jetty he could have arrived at.

My legs are really tired now, and my ass very sore. I could not help being aware that this is more or less the last day of this long cycling trip. More than anything I was very full of thoughts about how much I love India and the Indians. At one spot was an old woman standing by the roadside waiting for something. She was fat and ugly and very lovely in an Indian way at the same time. For a fraction of a second I had the urge to just stop short right in front of her and plant a big kiss on her forehead and tell her that I love her just being there. But I got the better of me and just cycled past. It probably would have shocked the bejeesus out of her if I had.

So now I am at a guest house by a jetty where there will not be any boat for another two days. Tomorrow morning I hope to find the other jetty and zip over to big B. Hope the Prime Ministers visit does not mean I will have trouble finding a room. With my smart phone still not working I have not been able to book anything.

Murud 2

Hareshwar - Murud, March 9, 2012.

64 km

I woke up early, when it was still dark outside. Then lay around awake for quite a while, but must have eventually dozed off again. I awoke to a piercing sound, some kind of alarm. At first I thought it may be a fire alarm or some such. I got up and checked my room without finding anything to be alarmed about. Checked outside and found nothing of interest. Then cast a glance at the wall clock and saw that it was already a quarter to nine.

By the time I had had breakfast and packed it was again ten o'clock before I got under way.

My legs felt tired and powerless in the strong headwind, and many more hills than I remembered from before. It took me forever getting to Dighi where I knew there would be a boat for crossing the river. For the first time on this trip I was really looking forward to this cycling coming to an end. I think I am just worn out really.


I found no place for lunch and made some mistake on the road. Had to cycle back a bit before getting back on track towards Dighi. Around 130 PM I came upon a small place selling ice cream. I asked for a cup with one scoop Butter Scotch and one Fresh Mango. The Mango thing was OK but not that special. The Butter Scotch though was delicious. When I asked the woman there, she told me a double scoop is 25 Rs. Not huge scoops, but adequate. I have another double, this time Butter Scotch and something called Anjeere. Again the prize goes to Butter Scotch. The woman is pleasant talking to and her English is remarkably good. She asks about my cycling trip and wishes me a pleasant journey. I am reinforced in my thinking that I was overcharged last night for the strawberry ice cream at the resort.

Eventually I reach the jetty at Dighi. There is a boat already loading motorbikes and I am soon onboard as well. The passage is a bit rough with the boat rolling quite a lot in the rather heavy seas whipped up by the strong wind.

At Janjira, just on the other side of the river, is a nice looking restaurant. It is already four o'clock but I have dhal fry and two chapatis anyway. As I cycle away from there I ask a rickshaw driver for Murud. He shows the way and tell me it is only 5 kms to go. Very nice!
It is Saturday, and yesterday was full moon, and the Hindu spring festival of Holi. I am a bit concerned about finding a room, thinking that many city people may have come down here to celebrate Holi. I cross the bridge leading in to Murud and head for the guest house I stayed at here a month ago. Bingo, I get the same room, same price.

Anjarle 2

Guhagar - Anjarle, March 7, 2012.

62 km

For a change I got away quite early. And oh how nice the morning cycling was! This whole area seems like a dream of yesteryears. Everything is slow, allowed to take its time. People sit around in the shade of trees, talking, smiling, and sometimes enjoy sleeping outside.

Roads were mostly of good quality. I crossed two rivers by small wooden boats, and I think one more on a bridge.

I think I have quite a lot of time for my ride up to Bombay, and was thinking of maybe cutting the days a bit shorter, find new places to stay. But then after the second boat trip I was already in Anjarle and moved in at Mr Sarthes place, where I stayed last. This time I decided to take my meals at his place also. There were several Indian tourists staying at Mr Sarthes, people from Pune and Bombay. They are aware of this being an area that still run by an older clock, and come to enjoy it while it lasts. Once the coastal highway is completed there will no doubt be many changes here.

Dinner was served on banana leafs, and tasted great.

I had a long talk with a couple of gentlemen from Pune, and found out some things of Indian history that I had not known about. Some time I must buy a good book on the subject.

Hareshwar

Anjarle - Hari Hareshwar, March 8, 2012.

51 km

I was up early today and was hoping to hit the road before it starts getting really hot. But then I ended up talking to people and again it was past ten before I finally got away. At first the road was fine, but soon turned worse. When I rode into Kelshi and asked for a boat across the river I was told I had to ride further inland. It came to be a very long and not that nice detour. Eventually I crossed that river on a bridge some 12 km further inland than were I had hoped to come across by boat. The ride on the Southern strand of the river was not altogether bad, but after having crossed the bridge I had to cycle back towards the coast on an awful gravel road. The detour must have cost me a couple of hours.


Once back on the coast again I started looking for an alternative to Shrivardan to stay at. When I reached Hari Hareshwar I asked at the Mtdc Tourist Bungalow for room, but it was full. Eventually I got a pricey room, or a bungalow actually, at the Hareshwar Tourist Bungalow. The room is fine and clean. But service at the attached restaurant is abysmal. There is no menu, food is not good, and they charge a hefty 65 Rs for a slice of strawberry icecream. There is a large freezer in the restaurant but still the only choice is strawberry.

Paint is flaking from the walls, there were piles of towels lying about right in the dining room. Someone spent the money building a fine resort, and then left managing the restaurant to incompetent fools. The whole thing reminded me of state run establishments in Eastern Europe in communist times where no one gave a shit.

Guhagar 2

Ganpatipule - Guhagar, March 6, 2012.

58 km

I had intended to have another rest day at Ganpatipule. But then I could not get a room at Kapil lodge where I wanted to stay. I got a room nearby, OK but not as good. There was quite a bit of noise early this morning. I don't know if it was the family or other guest leaving early. Anyway people talking loudly just outside my room much too early. I decided to leave after breakfast. My cycling clothes was only half dry from laundry when I put them on.

Oddly enough I felt much more tired today than yesterday. It seems the long ride up to Ratnagiri only hit me today, despite yesterdays half day, and lots of good food.

There was a ferry crossing before noon, between Jaigad and Navsai. Then cycling through real rural Konkan landscape. Sweet villages and nice people. I managed to avoid the nasty gravel road, but it was very hot through much of todays riding. Road conditions varied.

Some 4 kms before Guhagar I found a good dhaba at a road crossing. I had a good plate of chicken Schezhuan and washed it down with bottled mango juice and mineral water, well chilled. At Guhagar I decided to go back to the guest house I stayed at last time. It is a good place but I am a bit concerned about he nearby mosque starting their calls to prayer so early.


Guhagar guest house

Ganpatipule 2

Ratnagiri - Ganpatipule, March 5, 2012.

28 km

It is really good value at Vihar de Luxe in Ratnagiri. 600 Rs for a good room with an unusually soft bed, and a fine breakfast bouffe included in the price. And breakfast is available from already at 0730.

I rolled down the hill to the bazaar looking for some fruit to have as a snack. There was a couple of men selling grapes but he spoke no English at all and was unable to tell me the price with hand gestures. It was only gibbledygook what he told me. I thought I would find someone better at communicating with aliens, but never did. It was not far to Ganpatipule anyway so I could manage without the fruits.

At the bottom of the hill I met another foreigner, maybe South American, who said he was also on a cycle trip, but at the moment just out shopping. He was heading South, and I told him about the many hills he was up for.

It was good roads today. I crossed another three rivers, all on bridges. Up and down again of course.

Ratnagiri 2

Devgar - Ratnagiri, March 4, 2012.

101 km

Todays distance was a bit too much, in this heat and headwind. By the time I arrived Ratnagiri I was totally wiped.

The road itself was very good. I think I crossed seven rivers, all of them on bridges. Thus there was no delays, no waiting for ferryboats. But the bridges are of course all low down, and then I had to climb up again on the other side. Many of those uphills were so steep I had to get off and walk, pushing my bike. But oh the lovely shower once I had gotten my room, again at Vihar de Luxe. Divine!

An hour before Ratnagiri I stopped by the roadside for a glass of freshly squeezed pineapple juice. I could feel my blood sugar was at rock bottom and I was almost losing the will to pedal on. A young woman had this cart where she pressed fruit juices and mixed with ice, 20 Rs a glass. She was very pretty and had a lot of henna paintings on her hands and arms. She obviously wanted to talk to me and was disappointed when she realised I spoke neither Marathi nor Hindi. Once again I vowed to take a Hindi crash course next time I come back to this lovely country.

Devgar 2

Malvan - Devgar, March 3, 2012.

60 km

It is a beautiful way between Malvan and Devgar. But the road was mostly bad. There is however roadworks going on along much of it, and it should soon be better. I had a quite strong headwind in my face for most of the day. I guess it cooled me off a bit but obviously it also slowed me down.

Malvan 2

Vengurla - Malvan (Tarkali beach), March 1, 2012.

47 km

The hills of Southern Maharashtra have attacked me today. They are not as steep as in N Thailand or as long as in N Laos but they are just so many. Up and down, up and down. Still I know that this is only the beginning, there are many more to come in the next several cycling days.

I did not want to bother the family at Shram Safalya Niwas GH with breakfast. I ate some grapes and biscuits I had and drank a bottle of water. Then I could do my toilet needs, and was off. Instead I stopped by the bus station in Vengurla village. Just outside the bus station was a little schack where a man had a gas stove and cooked snacks. I had some potatoe-chopped onions thing with a baji and bread. It was nice and very Indian. While I ate I watched him deepfry Samosas and Pakodas in oil. After he had let the oil drip off he picked out several Samosas, broke them in small pieces and threw them out the door to a noisy bunch of crows hanging around there.
Obviously the crows will in no way benefit the man's business. And they are sure to come back again and again, probably bringing some crow friends with them, crowing and fighting. Still the man keeps feeding the birds. I did not need to ask him why, I know why. As a Hindu he is always aware that the fire of life within himself, that which makes it possible for him to experience yet another day, that fire is the same in the crow. A hungry crow is just as hungry as a hungry man.

Man is it nice to be in India! So many 'Hellos' and welcoming smiles along the road. And at crossroads I need not even ask which way to go. As I approach the intersection several people point me on and say 'Malvan!', since they already seem to have learned which way cyclists want to go.

I did not want to take the risk of waiting forever for a boat to take me across the river. Instead I cycled via the bridge. After I had crossed I did indeed find a small gravel road that runs along the river, and did not need to cycle via Malvan town. I was hungry again by the time I came to Tarkali beach area, and stopped at the Mtdc bungalows for their superb veg Thali. Now I am back at Babla Beach House, and very pleased to be here.


There is a lodge some 10-15 km S of Tarkali beach.

Vengurla 2

Arambol - Vengurla, Feb 29, 2012.

30 km

Going back up the same way I came down three weeks ago has the advantage of me knowing some things to avoid and others to look forward to. Returning to the very guesthouse I stayed at in Vengurla definitely is something I wanted to do. This beach schack I am now at againg is not so special by itself, but the food I get here is indeed delicious, and the sweet family I stay with is a prize.

I was a bit surprised that it was only 30 km getting here, now that I bypassed Shiroda beach. I thought it would be well over 40 kms.

This morning I was up early at Arambol. So early that no restaurants were open at all. I went for a walk on the beach, and did my morning excercises. On the way back to Laxmi GH I spotted a small place that had opened and were serving idlys. There I met a beautiful older Swedish woman, even though she has never lived in Sweden itself. She is well travelled and we had many things to talk about. I had expected to be on the road by 0830 but it came to be almost 10 o'clock before I eventually got away.

Still I arrived here at Vengurla already by 2 pm. I was even considering to continue on to Malvan today, but decided against it. Since the boat I came across on from the other side does not seem to run regularly I will probably have to cycle further inland, and cross the river on a roadbridge. Now that my smartphone refuses to work I fear I may get lost on the roads before reaching Tarkali Beach.

Arambol 2

Vagator - Arambol, Feb 28, 2012.

22 km

Back in Arambol again. I could not get a confirmation on my train booking going Margao - Bombay. It is not unlikely that a booking could have come through one or two days prior to my actually travelling. But I did not want to risk being there on a chance which would have left me no options. Besides I felt I had been long enough in Vagator anyway. And I actually really wanted to get back on the road. So now I have just taken the first step of cycling back up to Bombay.

I know the first several days will be hilly and hot, but that there will also be many very nice stretches. And I have everything in my own hands. I have enough time to get to Bombay, even enough spare time for one or two rest days along the way. I think ten cycling days should be enough. I will skip a couple of the stops I made going down, nd hope to avoid some mistakes as well. My only concern is a couple of the river crossings I have to do. Going South there were at least two iffy crossings. I hope I will be able to find boats going my way.

I took it easy this morning and only left Vagator at 1045. Still I arrived Arambol at 1200. Now I am thinking maybe I should have gone on a bit further. But I plan to have my next stop at Vengurla, bypassing Shiroda beach.

Now in Bombay.

I am now back in Bombay since a few hours. My cycling trip is
basically over. Tomorrow I will ride up to Bandra and turn the bike in
for service and boxing for the flight early Thursday morning.

All is well.

--
Lars
lars.traveller@gmail.com