Vengurla

Malvan - Vengurla, Feb 5, 2012.

48 km

Following Google Maps there should be a route South along Tarkali beach road down to the river and then along that in a NE-ly direction to a bridge across the river. But when I got to the river there was no road along it at all. When I stood there, double checking Google Maps on my smartphone, a European man on a motorbike stopped by. He was looking for another cyclist, a German guy who should come around any day to pick up some spare parts. Austrian Roland is retired and spends a few months at Tarkali beach in the winter. He told me I could cross the river in a boat, or else I would have to ride almost all the way up to Malvan itself before I would get on a road leading to the bridge.

The boat sounded like a better idea, and Roland offered to show me where it would normally be landed. But since the day was still early he asked if I would want a cup of strong coffee in his nearby house. Sure, off we went. He has a fine little house down on the narrow peninsula that has Tarkali Beach on one side and the river on the other. Roland asked around about the whereabouts of the boatman and found out he had just punted his way over to the other side, and would be half an hour or so before coming back. Time enough for an espresso, and for good measure Roland also put a large Tuborg to chill down in the freezer. By the time I had finished my coffe and we had shared the beer it was obvious the boatman was not coming back anytime soon. So Roland called for another boat. This time a motorboat that wanted 200 Rs to take me across. OK.


Roland's place




On the motorboat
Once on the other side there was a small trail leading to a small road, and then onto MSH 4. I was quite eager to check on the beaches along the way, and it suited me fine to ride as close to the coast as possible. A couple of hours after leaving Rolands place I met German Steven, the cyclist who was to pick up the spare parts Roland had waiting. I turned off the # 4 trying to get to Dhaboli Beach, but never quite got there. I was on a very small trail, and hilly too. Eventually when people told me it would be impossible to take my bike all the way to the beach, and I also was aware of ending up the wrong side of a river I turned around thinking that Vengurla Beach was more likely to be what I was looking for.

Vengurla itself is a nice looking place. I stocked up on water and biscuits, bought a bar of soap and headed for where restaurants would be. That proved to be right at the Northernmost end of Vengurla Beach, near a lighthouse. There are several hotels and resorts there. By then it was past 5 PM and I decided to skip lunch altogether, and had two ice creams instead. There is another river flowing out to the ocean right up by the lighthouse. I thought it better to cross that river too before settling for the night. If I am by a beach I may as well be right on it, not separated by a river. Somehow even though it was getting late in the day I felt confident I would find some place better than those hotels.

And I did. Cycled on for a while and when I slowed down to have a look in on a small road in the direction of the setting sun, some men sitting aorund there said yes, yes, beach is this way! I asked if there would be a guest house, and they said yes there is. A lady a little further on confirmed it. I had to drag my bike through some heavy sand though before arriving at Shram Safalya Niwas. Here I have a bamboo and palm leaf shack right by the beach, 500 Rs, with attached bath and electricity. The family brought me chai and a delicious Thali. Nothing like skipping lunch to wet your dinner appetite.


My beach schack at Vengurla
And I had a quick dip in the waves soon after arrival. Fab!